Travel Peru, Peru Blog

An image of a coloured Jesus Christ painted on a wall in Pachacamilla near the city of Lima in 1651 was bound to become the beginning of the most important religious tradition in Peru’s calendar. According to history, an anonymous african slave painted the mural which survived a few earthquakes. After 358 years, the faith to the image evolved into a great feast. Every october, a series of processions are arranged by the Hermandad or Brotherhood of The Lord of the Miracles. People not only from Lima but also from other peruvian cities fill up the streets of downtown to worship the icon. Today, the 18th, devotees give pay homage to the image for the third time in this month.

At about 6:30 am, the image of the Lord leaves the Nazarenas church on a litter or “anda” which is carried by a group of men of the Brotherhood. Ahead of them, the sisters walk slowly looking at the altar and wave thick palo santo incense burners which scent the air. They are known as the sahumadoras. Brothers, sisters, and many other celebrants wear a purple robe with a white rope on their shoulders or around their waists. This is the reason that october is known as the mes morado or purple month in Lima. On its way to the main square, the procession makes a few stops in front of colorful carpet of rose petals and make-shift stands to give his blessings to the people.     

In turns, the squad of bearers or “carriers” turns over the litter to another squad. Music is heard along the procession played not only by the marching band but also by independent musicians and artists who sing creole or peruvian music such as valses. No surprise to encounter a couple dancing marinera too. Inhabitants crowd the balconies and roofs of colonial houses and throw purple rose petals to the Cristo Moreno, another name for the Lord of Miracles. The streets are strewn with thousands of people creating a compact group that spreads about 3 or 4 blocks. Despite the difficulty at walking, street vendors manage to offer kind of medallions called “detentes” and all sort of spiritual trinkets. The most popular pastry associated with the procession of the Lord of Miracles is the well-known turrón de Dona Pepa which is sold especially at the Tacna avenue, very near to the Nazarenas church.

The next procession is going to be tomorrow monday the 19th from the Del Carmen church to the Nazarenas church. On its way, it will pay a visit to three hospitals, the palace of justice and it will go past the San Martin Square. The fifth procession will be on wednesday the 28th. It is going to be a round-trip from the Nazarenas church and it will call on the hospitals San Bartolomé and Arzobispo Loayza. These two processions will start at 6:30 am. The sixth, which it is the last one, however, will begin at midday the sunday november first.

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