Travel Peru, Peru Blog

While I was rafting the Lunahuaná River (1) with other fellows, there was a young man on a kayak very near to us. He was struggling against the currents with the help of his paddle. In a blink of an eye, he just disappeared. I only saw the hull of the boat for seconds which seemed a lifetime for me. Suddenly, he emerged from the waters.
That is really extreme! I said to myself.
I do not dare doing that yet even though it would only be a rapids I. However, I do dare kayaking in the world´s highest lake. And not just one day, but actually three.
And that is also cool!

Kakaymania Day 1: Ccotos
René and Abraham, two of the three local kayak caretakers, asked me whether I would like to go on a single kayak. You know, I am just a beginner so I am better off on one of those double-seat boats. Ok, but tomorrow you give it a try, won’t you? René said. Of course, man!

I took position for paddling at the back seat, and Luis, the third kayak caretaker, helped me adjust the bar for my feet to control the rudder. After Abraham sat in front, we were ready to boat across the waters. We all left the Capachica Peninsula´s shoreline. The paddles propelled a bunch of six kayaks relentlessly with the views of the lake as a background. Just in front of us rose the Taquile Island.

The group moved so fast that I saw them far away from our boat. At first, I thought that the bars were stuck. Then I realized that my lack of dexterity at pushing them made the boat zigzag. That kept us from being altogether with the group.
Far south-west, I could see the Amantani Island. To our left, the peninsula hid a beach encircled by steep slopes. Next to it, a small piece of land protruded toward the lake. As we got closer, I understood it was another island. Rather tiny, though. The group turned the island around, but Abraham and I headed straight to the beach. Still, we landed the last on the Ccotos Peninsula.

After a break, we crossed the waters back to Capachica. We toured the shores of the villages of Siale and Paramis. As we paddled to Tecques, Abraham told me, among other things, that young couples used to communicate each other by mirrors. Nowadays, they do that by cell phones. From Tecques, we began a 3-hour hike to the top. From there, we admired either side of Capachica. Later, Adolfo Baca, our guide, showed us a round site made of boulders. He said it dated back to Inca times and from then on, villagers used it to make offerings to the mother Earth. Then we went down to the village of Llachón to get ready for day 2.

Kayakmania Day 2: Taquile Island
So, today is Sergio´s turn, Abraham recalled looking at me. But the wind is about to get up, my friend, I quickly retorted. Come on, it is calm, Luis replied. Who knows? I tried as an answer while sitting on a double-seat kayak. This time at front, though.

Actually, it was so calm that the wind let us glide on the waters smoothly. We paddled across toward the rising hulk of island Taquile that seemed to be nearer than it was. Luis, who was at the back seat that morning, did not talk too much. Instead, he focused on rowing without stop. I tried my best to follow his rhythm. Thus, we arrived first to the pier at the island.

After paying an arrival fee, we climbed up a cobbled path to the main square. The place was crowded with tourists coming up and down looking at the textiles displayed at the local center. I paid a visit to the small museum at the city hall. We all met altogether again in a restaurant where we indulged a lunch that featured quinoa soup and fried trout. Later, coming down a slope toward the dock, we hopped aboard our motor boat that brought us back to Capachica. On the way, Abraham pointed out the snow-covered Illimani. Upon arrival, we were assigned to a family for our first night in a local home (refer to Nights on Lake´s Shore).

Kayakmania Day 3: Uros Floating Islands
You know the problem is that I have not brought enough clothes if I capsize, I said to all who were expecting me to take position on a single kayak.

That morning the route seemed endless. Adolfo, my partner on the kayak today, pointed out a white spot that I could hardly see. We might get there tomorrow morning, I joked reluctantly. Do you think so? Adolfo questioned and added As a matter of fact, the average is the same, 2 to 3 hours.

We made a stop at a series of fishbowls floating on the waters where villagers breed trout. On our way, a cluster of reed told us that we were near to the floating islands of Uros. I was able to see three small islands. There are up to 40 islands spread on the lake. On one of them, villagers showed us how they build their islands with reed.

The kayaks were loaded on a motor boat and my chance to paddle a single kayak was over. Perhaps next time.

(1) Lunahuaná is a popular river for the practice of rafting. Aproximately it is 185 km south of the city of Lima, 2 1/2 or 3 hours by bus or car.